With a fresh coffee in hand we set about exploring the cobbled streets of Bandipur. There was a familiar smell of incense in the air, coupled with the fragrance of flowers, which decorated the not so familiar European-esque style buildings.
We heard the chimes of bells echoing through the narrow lanes, and the noise of beating drums in the distance! We followed the sounds towards a small temple at the end of the street where a colorful, religious ceremony was taking place. There were people chanting, children were full of laughter, and women danced in the streets. Bandipur, what an intriguing place!
Bandipur was once a thriving trading town and an important stop on the India-Tibet trade route. That was until the 1970’s when the Prithvi Highway was built and bypassed the town completely.
Now tourism has given the town a new lease of life, but without taking away from its charm. Most of the buildings on the main street have been transformed into adorable cafes and cozy lodges with balconies and gardens, perfect for watching the world go by.
Things To Do In Bandipur, Nepal
There isn’t an endless list of things to do in Bandipur, but that in itself is part of the allure. Much of your time can be spent meandering the small streets and simply watching daily life. Below is a list of the main attractions in the peaceful, hilltop town of Bandipur.
Bandipur Bazaar
After dodging mopeds and cars in Kathmandu, it will come as a breathe of fresh air that the main streets are free from traffic. Small shops sell souvenirs and inviting cafes welcome you to take a seat.
At the far end of the bazaar stands the elegant building of Padma Library and the small, pagoda style temple of Bhindebasini Mandir.
The culture and heritage of Bandipur is well preserved and the bazaar proudly showcases the ancient, but beautifully restored Newari buildings. If you’re lucky you can see one of the many religious festivals that take place here. The streets come alive with colorful decorations and the locals sing and dance in celebration.
While strolling around the bazaar it’s also likely the local school kids will happily greet you with a friendly wave before running off down one of the narrow lanes.
Hike Gurungche Daada & See Thani Mai Temple
The steepest of the limestone hills that surround Bandipur has a well-maintained stairway that takes you up and over the ridge of the mountain, and is well worth the climb. You do need to have a head for heights as some sections are very narrow and steep, but there is a sturdy handrail for the more faint-hearted.
The climb takes around 20-30 minutes, and there are plenty of places to stop and take in the views along the way. There is a small temple called Thani Mai at the top and on a clear day the views of the Himalayan peaks and the valley below are breathtaking. This is also a popular place to watch sunrise and sunset.
The entrance to the stairway is located near to the start of the main bazaar, where the road curves around the town.
Siddha Cave
This huge cave is thought to be the largest in Nepal at 437 metres deep and 50 metres high.
Once inside a guide will help you explore the cave using ropes and ladders. With a mighty interior, stalagmites, stalactites and of course bats, this impressive cave is a popular spot in Bandipur.
Using a guide is compulsory to enter the cave, which costs 200 Nepalese Rupee (~$1.80 USD). Torches are available to hire, as it is very dark inside, but if you have a head light take that with you.
For the even more adventurous you can abseil down into the cave, although this must be arranged in advance with a tour company.
The cave can be reached by walking down from Bandipur, which takes 1 hour 30 minutes each way. You start the walk from the north end of the village, follow the signs to the monastery and then the signs to the cave. Be aware that it can be slippery along some of the path. Another way to reach the cave is from Bimalnagar, near Dumre. This route takes around 30-45 minutes.
Khadga Devi Temple
Khadga Devi Temple is a small, but highly revered temple in Bandipur, although you could be mistaken for assuming it was a residential house at first glance.
Inside the temple is a sacred sword known as ‘Khadga’ that dates back to the 16th Century. It is said the sword was given to the king by Shiva. Locals believe that if anyone looks directly at the sword they will die instantly, as if being struck by the sword itself. The sword is therefore covered in cloth and the temple only opens once a year during Dashain, an important festival in Nepal that usually takes place in October.
This temple is reached by taking the steps up to the left at the far end of the main street.
Tudikhel
In days gone-by this large area of land was used by traders and then as a parade ground. Now it’s a popular picnic spot and another fantastic viewpoint for sunset or sunrise, especially if the majestic Himalayan peaks of the Annapurna and Mansalu mountain ranges are in view. Tudikhel is also used as the main football field in Bandipur so you may see the locals engaging in a competitive game or two.
You can reach Tudikhel by continuing beyond the steps past Khadga Devi Temple. It’s about 500 metres from the main bazaar.
Hike To Ramkot Village
Ramkot Village is about a 2 hour, relatively easy, hike from Bandipur. This traditional Magar village is a small, scenic village with a few rare, thatched roundhouses still standing. The rest of the buildings are traditional Nepali houses with wooden balconies. It’s completely untouched and shows the authentic lifestyle of rural Nepal. Corn drying in the sun, farm animals grazing and locals going about their day. When the weather is clear you will also get views of the Himalayan peaks on the horizon.
How To Get To Bandipur, Nepal
Bandipur is sat upon a 1030 metre hilltop in-between Kathmandu and Pokhara. A stop here will usually mean a slight detour from the usual Kathmandu-Pokhara route, but it’s a detour that’s well worthwhile.
You can take one of the tourist buses that goes from Kathmandu to Pokhara or vice versa and tell the driver you want to get off at Dumre. There are no discounts for getting off early, but the cost of a ticket is only 700-800 Nepalese Rupee (NPR) (~$6-7 USD). If you’re coming from Kathmandu you will arrive in Dumre after around 5-6 hours. If you’re coming from Pokhara you will arrive in Dumre after about 2-3 hours.
You may also be able to find local buses to Dumre from Pokhara or Kathmandu, but these do tend to get very crowded and we found it easier, especially with our luggage, to get the tourist bus as you are guaranteed a seat.
Once you arrive in Dumre there are local buses that go up to Bandipur. They depart near to where you get dropped off, but if you aren’t sure ask a local who’ll point you in the right direction. Alternatively there will be plenty of taxis waiting to take you up there for around 500 NPR (~$4.50). On the way up we took a taxi as the local bus was full. On the way back down to Dumre we took the local bus, it was extremely cheap, but very crowded.
Another option is to hike up to Banidpur from Dumre, which will take around 2-3 hours.
Where To Stay In Bandipur
There are a range of options in Bandipur, but due to its small size popular options can sell out, especially during peak season. For that reason we would recommend booking ahead. As with all of the accommodation prices in Nepal, they will fluctuate depending on the time of year.
We stayed at Bandipur Kaushi Inn, which is located on the main street, includes a great breakfast and has a rooftop with stunning views on a clear day. We highly recommend it and it offers great value for money.
The Old Inn is a hugely popular place to stay in Bandipur, although it’s also one of the most expensive. It has an excellent location and great reviews so it can get booked out very quickly. If you don’t stay at The Old Inn, you can still relax and enjoy some refreshments on the beautiful terrace outside the back of the Inn.
How Long Do You Need In Bandipur?
Due to the slight detour you’ll need to make to get to Bandipur we would recommend staying for at least two nights, especially if you’re coming from Kathmandu as you won’t arrive until the afternoon.
It’s a peaceful, laid-back town that welcomes you to relax and slow down the pace. The pedestrianised streets offer a welcome respite from the bustling areas of Kathmandu and Pokhara. The old world charm will leave you wanting more than just one night to soak up the atmosphere.
