After spending 7 nights in the bustling tourist hub of Yangshuo, arriving in Xingping came as a breath of fresh air – having smaller crowds and way fewer touts!
Despite the droves of day tours that frequent the area, the ancient town still retains much of its charm, and the surrounding backdrop of the Li River, and towering limestone karsts look like something straight out of a fairy-tale.
If you’re looking for some of that yesteryear atmosphere we highly recommend basing yourself in Xingping for a few days – you can still enjoy the mornings crowd free and once the day-tours disperse the streets become empty again. This is also when the scenery is at its most magical!
Nearly every morning we woke early to catch a glimpse of the quiet Li River as low fog and mist drifted in and out of the towering Karst peaks, and fisherman could be seen casting out their nets.
There’s plenty of hikes and activities here to keep you occupied on both sides of the river. You can also photograph the old ways of Cormorant fishing (for a fee of course), not to mention the view here is printed on the back of a 20 Yuan Banknote.
We really enjoyed our time in Xingping but I hope this area doesn’t become ruined by over-tourism in the years to come. I can’t help feel that it will, as in the short time we were there we witnessed much construction and development of the surrounding areas, either way it’s still one of our favorite spots in China!
If you’re planning a trip to Guilin then check out our guide to the whole area.
Laozhai Hill Viewpoint
Situated in the centre of town near to the ferry port, Laozhai Hill is great for watching sunrise or sunset. The views where the sun sets are better though as the sun disappears behind seemingly endless karsts with the curves of the Li River in the foreground.
The hike takes around 40 minutes and it’s all steps to the first viewpoint that overlooks Xingping Town. It’s a steep climb and towards the top the steps get steeper and more narrow. There is also an almost vertical metal ladder near the top, but there are handrails either side of the ladder to help. To get to the slightly higher viewpoint to watch sunset you will also need to climb up a short section of large rocks. This hike is not difficult, you just need to take your time at some of the sections and watch your footing when getting to the very top.
We recommend wearing shoes that have good grip and to avoid the hike after it’s been raining as the steps and rocks will be slippy and dangerous.
This is a popular hike, especially at sunset, but it is not officially maintained by the government so there isn’t an entrance fee.
Damien Mountain Viewpoint
The views from Damien Mountain are incredible as the viewpoint overlooks the huge curve in the Li River and magnificent karst landscapes as far as the eye can see. This hike hasn’t been discovered by many people and we didn’t see anyone else during our whole time spent at the mountain.
We started the hike around 11:00 am and it took around 50 minutes to reach the top. Most of the hike is up stone steps that get very narrow and steep the higher you get. There are also 5 metal ladders to climb up which may be a little tricky if you don’t have a head for heights as there aren’t any handrails. When you get to the top the viewpoint opens out onto an platform with breathtaking views. We spent over 2 hours at the top in awe of the landscape and wandering how we were the only people there.
To access Damien Mountain you will need to cross over to the other side of river from Xingping Town. You can take the ferry boat over the river which costs 5 yuan each way. You buy the boat ticket from a small desk near to where the ferry departs.
The start of the hike is shown on maps.me, but you will need to walk about 3.5 km to the get to the base of the hike. There were electric bikes to rent or golf buggies to jump on if you would prefer not to walk, but we found them to be very overpriced. A cheaper option would be to hire a bike from Xingping Town and pay to take it over on the ferry.
Damien Mountain would be a great spot to catch the sunrise, but it would be difficult to get over to the other side of the river so early. We recommend spending a night in one of the accommodation options near to the start of the hike, if you want to complete the hike at sunrise. If you do hike up for sunrise though it is important to wear good shoes and take a head lamp and torch. There are some sections that are very narrow with sheer drops so it could be very dangerous in the dark.
The sun sets on the other side of the viewpoint and behind the mountain so it isn’t recommended for sunset.
This is another hike that isn’t maintained by the government so there isn’t an entrance fee.
Nine Horses Fresco Hill
Nine Horse Fresco Hill is a popular spot along the Li River. The side of the mountain is said to look like a huge painting of horses in different poses. If we’re honest it isn’t one of the most amazing spots in the area, but it is very popular with Chinese tourists due to various legends surrounding the massive cliff face. It’s only around 4 km from Xingping so it’s very easy to reach from the town, but if you don’t have time then this is something you could skip over.
To view Nine Horses Fresco Hill you need to get to the other side of the river. To get there you can walk along the Li River the whole way from Xingping to the nearby boat pier which takes around 1.5 hours and takes you past some beautiful scenery. Alternatively you could rent a scooter and drive for around 15 minutes and park at the boat pier. From there you can take a boat to the other side of the river to get views of Nine Horses Fresco Hill. The boat is 5 yuan return.
Another way to see this famous spot is to take a bamboo raft up the river from the Xingping boat pier. It costs 80 yuan each for around an hour.
If you take a cruise to get from Guilin to Yangshou then you will pass Nine Horses Fresco Hill along the way.
20 Yuan Banknote Viewpoint
On the back of a 20 yuan banknote there is a drawing of a stunning landscape of the Li River, huge karsts and a single fisherman. Just a short walk from Xingping Town you can find the exact location that sits on the banknote. Although there are a few different locations to get the view, we found the pier where the bamboo rafts depart from the best place to get a photo. You can easily walk down onto the pier even if you aren’t going on a raft.
The main viewpoints are a 20 minute walk from Xingping Town and it’s in the same direction as Nine Horses Fresco Hill. You can easily visit both spots either by walking, or if you’re short on time on a scooter.
Xianggong Hill Viewpoint
Xianggong Hill is situated on the other side of the river to Xingping Town and is a very popular spot for sunrise. It’s an incredible sight to see the sun appear above the karsts and the mighty Li River.
Although it looks near to Xingping on a map there are no bridges to take you across the river unless you go all the way back to Yangshou. The ferry across the river doesn’t start running till after sunrise and the start of the hike is not in easy walking distance to where the ferry drops you. So if you want to visit this spot for sunrise from Xingping Town you will need to arrange it through your accommodation so they can ensure a car and boat man are available early in the morning. We have heard that sometimes the drivers are late though so it may be a bit of a rush to get to the viewpoint for sunrise.
If you have a tripod then you will need to get to the viewpoint for around 5:00 am to get set up in a good spot, which is about 1 hour 15 minutes before the sun rises. After 5:00 am the viewpoint gets full very quickly. As you won’t be able to get there that early from Xingping we recommend staying in the hotel that is right next to the entrance of Xianggong Hill. Alternatively you could hire a driver or drive there yourself on a scooter from Yangshou Town.
You can also visit the viewpoint in the day when it’s likely you will have it almost to yourself, but it isn’t recommended for sunset as the sun sets behind the mountain on the other side to the viewpoint.
The hike takes around 20 minutes and it’s all well maintained steps. If you go for sunrise we recommend taking a torch as although there are lights on the way up, they are quite dim if you arrive when it’s sill pitch black.
There is a 60 yuan entrance fee to Xianggong Hill.
Walk Around The Ancient Streets
The ancient area of Xingping isn’t big and can easily be explored within an hour or so, but if you’re in the town in the early morning or as the sun is setting you will want to savor the area for longer. During these times the streets will be free from the tours that fill the streets in the day and you can appreciate the laid-back atmosphere and ancient style buildings.
You’ll find plenty of quirky, souvenir shops and little cafes and restaurants as you wander through the cobbled streets. Due to the small number of tourists around at sunset, you will feel very welcome if you chose to dine in any of the restaurants. We recommend Family Cafe on the main high street. We had excellent sizzling beef and a delicious beer fish, which is very famous to the area. The portions were generous and ingredients fresh with the fish being delivered by a local fisherman shortly after we placed our order. It doesn’t get much fresher than that!
Lotus Cave
We ended up at the Lotus Caves by accident when we were on our scooter chatting to a Chinese tourist who was on an electric buggy in front of us! We were so pleased we stumbled upon the Lotus Caves as they weren’t crowded and it was interesting to see the amazing formations that lie within the karsts the area is so famous for.
A guide takes you around the cave in a small group, but understandably the tour is only in Chinese. If you can’t understand the tour guide though it doesn’t take away from the experience and witnessing these incredible caves all lit up. Near the end of the tour you will visit the part of the cave where there are hundreds of rock formations that have naturally formed in the shape of perfectly round lotus pads.
The entrance fee is 45 yuan and the tour is around 1 hour. The caves are just a short 5-10 minute drive from Xingping Town on an electric scooter.
Xingping Fishing Village Hike
We attempted to get to this small fishing village twice during our time in Xingping Town, but unfortunately we didn’t end up making it there! It is only accessible by boat or a long hike and we were told that no boats would currently take us there due to the high amount of boat traffic already on the Li River. The fishing village was made famous by Bill Clinton who visited the area in 1998 and when he asked to see ‘the real China’ he was taken to Xingping fishing village.
We first attempted the hike in the heat of the day using a route shown on maps.me. The hike was more strenuous in the humidity and blazing sun than we had anticipated and there was very little shade. After around an hour we came to a crossroads that we weren’t expecting and neither path looked as though it was going to take us in the right direction so we headed back to Xingping town. We asked the staff from our hostel if they could help and they showed us a guide they had on their We Chat app with detailed directions and photos.
We set out again on a cloudy day hoping for some respite from the sun and using the photos we found our way onto a narrow, overgrown path which was the correct route to the fishing village. You would never find it on your own so we only recommend attempting this hike if you have detailed directions. Unfortunately for us it started pouring with rain and the narrow, rocky path we were on became slippy and it was so overgrown we couldn’t see where we were stepping. With no sign of the rain stopping we made the decision to turn back again!
We would have loved to see Xingping Fishing village, but it is a strenuous 2.5 hour hike up and over the karsts to get there and the path is not clear at all. You also need to be prepared to hike back the same way as you will not be able to get a boat back to Xingping Town. We suggest going into This Old Place Hostel which is near the start of the hike and asking them for directions before trying to get to there.
Getting Around Xingping Town & Surrounding Areas
Xingping Town is very small and can easily be explored on foot. Most of the attractions we have listed can also be accessed by foot. If you want to explore a little further afield or just save your legs then an electric scooter can be hired from around 60 yuan a day. You can travel around 45 km’s on a full battery using an electric scooter, which is plenty for this area.
There are also bicycles available from 30 yuan a day and plenty of enthusiastic electric buggy drivers willing to take you around on a tour of the area or just from place to place. Always remember to barter if using an electric buggy as they will start their price high.
The ferry from one side of the river to the other is 5 yuan each way.
Going along the Li River on a bamboo raft is also a popular activity in Xingping with an hour trip starting at 80 yuan each.
Where To Stay In Xingping
Xingping Town is only small and there isn’t a huge amount of choice of places to stay. We stayed at This Old Place Hostel and every other person we met in Xingping was also staying there. It’s a great choice and excellent value for money. There are dorm rooms as well as double rooms with private bathrooms available.
They offer a good western breakfast for 20 yuan if you book the day before, decent wifi, a rooftop bar and a restaurant serving Chinese and western food, including woodfired pizzas. The location is excellent, it’s right next to the river and the start of the Laozhai Hill hike.
The staff speak English and are on hand to help you arrange anything you want to do in the area.
How To Get To Xingping From Yangshuo
TIP – there aren’t any ATM’s in Xingping that work with international bank cards so ensure you withdraw enough money in Yangshuo before you leave.
Take the bus from the south bus station in Yangshuo, even though it is a small bus there is room to transport your luggage also. From the main Pan Tao Road take the 801 bus from the opposite side of the road to West Street. The bus costs 1 yuan each and runs regularly. Get off at the ‘Fengming Primary School’ stop, which is marked on maps.me and walk a couple of minutes to the South Bus Station.
When you arrive at the bus station say you want to go to Xingping they will point you in the right direction. The bus doesn’t have a number, but where it’s parked there is a sign saying ‘Xingping’. The buses run about every 10-15 minutes and it costs 10 yuan. You pay on the bus and the journey takes around 50 minutes. In high season the bus runs from around 6.30 am till 7:00 pm and in low season 7:00 am till 6:00 pm.
The bus drops you at a small bus station in Xingping. It’s currently a small town so you should be able to walk to your accommodation and it shouldn’t be more than around 700 metres. There are a few hotels situated a little further around the river just outside the town so if you’re staying in one of those hotels it’s likely you will find someone in a little golf buggy to take you there – just remember to barter as they will ask for a higher fee to begin with. If there aren’t any waiting at the bus station just start walking along the main road to your accommodation and one will soon show up.
How To Get To Xingping From Guilin
TIP – there aren’t any ATM’s in Xingping that work with international bank cards so ensure you withdraw enough money at the airport or in Guilin City before you leave.
Bus From Guilin Airport To Xingping
If you’re coming from Guilin Airport then you will need to first get the bus to Yangshao South Bus Station first and then from the same bus station take the bus to Xingping (see above). The bus from Guilin Airport to Yangshou costs 50 yuan and takes around 1 hour 30 minutes. The buses run every hour to every 1.5 hours with 8 buses daily. The first one leaves the airport at 9:30 am and the last one at 8:00 pm. If doing the journey from Xingping to Guilin Airport the first bus is 7:00 am and the last bus is 7:00 pm and there are 8 buses in total every day.
When you arrive at the airport head to the bus ticket counter to buy the bus ticket, there is a waiting area inside and then the bus leaves from outside the terminal where there is a sign stating ‘Yangshao’.
Bus From Guilin City To Xingping
There is a bus that leaves from Guilin South Bus Station which is about 12 km from central Guilin. You can take bus K99 from a number of stops within the city including the bus stop outside of Guilin Train Station. This bus costs 2 yuan, leaves quite regularly and drops you directly outside the south bus terminal.
You can then purchase your ticket inside the bus station which costs 40 yuan each. The bus to Xingping takes around 2 hours because it goes to Yangshou first and then carries on to Xingping. There are 8 buses a day with 4 in the morning and 4 in the afternoon – the first one leaves at 7:55 am and the last one leaving at 5:25 pm. For the return journey from Xingping to Guilin the first bus leaves at 7:00 am and the last one leaves at 6:00 pm – there are 8 buses a day.
Alternatively you could take a bus to Yangshou from Guilin Train Station and then transfer onto another bus to Xingping.
Train From GuiIin City To Xingping
Although we didn’t use this option you could also take the high speed train from Guilin to Yangshou Railway Station that is actually a lot closer to Xingping Town than Yangshou Town. There are several departures every day with most trains only taking 24 minutes, although most of the departures are from Guilin North or Guilin West railway stations that are not in central Guilin. There is currently one departure a day from Guilin Train Station, which is central to the city. Check Trip.com for the schedule and you can also use it to book the tickets for a small fee.
Once you arrive at Yangshou Railway Station you can get the bus from the train station to Xingping bus station which costs 5 yuan and takes around 15 minutes.
18 Comments
The architecture here looks amazing! We love choosing locations to visit based on the architecture- and this would be a great place for us!
Your pictures are amazing and make the place look magical! Thank you so much for sharing this place! I understand this feeling when the place is so good and unspoiled by tourists that you almost don’t wanna share it with anyone to prevent more people from coming 🙂
We had a similar trip to Guilin and its surrounding area back in 2015, and really loved it! The weather was not very good though, so it was tiring to hike when it was foggy, and we didn’t see much of the rice terraces. But we were glad that during our cruise trip from Guilin to Yangshuo, the rain stopped and we finally got to see a bit of the breathtaking karst mountains!
Very interesting post and your pictures are AMAZING! Thanks for sharing your experience.
As always, I am blown away by your photography. If you ever start teaching classes, please let me know.
I have been in Guilin, but that was many years ago and your photos brought back wonderful memories.
Guilin is one my bucket list where I want to go and click photos. I am so jealous that you went there before travel bans happened. This place looks like a setting of fantasy movie.
Your stunning photos make me want to visit this place too, wow! The building work you mention is a bit worrying, but I hope this place will retain its unique character!
Your photos are really breathtaking! it’s so cool that you can visit the exact viewpoint from the bank note.
Xingping is nothing short of a revelation. It looks so beautiful and the views are stunning, no wonder the view is replicated on a currency note. Being able to view cormorant fishing sounds fascinating.
Your pictures over Li River are spectacular! Damien Mountain Viewpoint looks amazing, though the metal ladders (without handrails!) scare me a bit – how did you manage those in flip flops 🙂 ?!
Thank you so much Smita! We had Damien Mountain viewpoint all to ourselves for hours, it was incredible! The metal ladders were definitely a bit hair-raising and I think I took my flip flops off when going up and down them for added grip!
Wow, the scenery here is incredible! I would love to do all the hikes you mentioned, as all the pictures were so beautiful. Sounds like a very interesting small town to visit.
Wow, your photos are so stunning, especially your portraits of the man on the boat! I normally hope for blue skies when I travel but the mist and fog here are just perfect and give your shots so much character. Glad to hear you liked Xingping more than Yangshuo and that it was much less touristy. Also, it’s so cool that you got that picture of a very crisp 20 RMB bill in front of the real thing!
Your photos are so hauntingly beautiful I had to reread the post twice because I kept just staring at the pictures and forgetting my place! What type of camera do you use? I’m a big fan of caves so the Lotus Caves are a high point for me.
Hi Nina, thank you so much, that’s amazing to hear 🙂 yes we completely stumbled across the Lotus Caves by following a family through the beautiful countryside and one of them happened to speak English. He told us we should check out the caves with them and we are so glad we did!
We use the Sony A7rii and the Sony A7iii with a variety of Sony lenses.
Seriously stunning photos as always. Your blogs are such a pleasure to read (and see!) Is the fisherman fishing with cormorants? We watched fisherman do that in Japan by firelight – I was so impressed with the birds. Is it the same in China?
I am super impressed with the viewpoints – those mountains and hills just look like something from a fairy tale. Did you hike up in your dress? I am so impressed! You look so fancy at the top. 😀
Thank you so much Josy! Yes they are fishing with cormorants so it sounds like it is the same as you watched in Japan. Absolutely amazing! The viewpoints in this area really are incredible – so many steps but so worth it! And yes, I hiked up in my dress 🙂
As I was reading and looking at your pictures, I was thinking how incredible it all looked. And then I read about the Lotus Cave and my eyes widened! I absolutely have to go now!!!!