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Our adventure weekend of climbing Snowdon on the Rhyd Ddu Path was kick-started on a Friday evening with a short conversation that went something like — “The weathers nice this weekend, shall we do something?” and me replying “why don’t we climb Snowdon?”
A quick, last minute hotel booking, some kit thrown in the back of the car and we were set, on our way, full of energy and buzzing with anticipation.
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Snowdonia has a magic like atmosphere only enhanced by tall tales of myth and legend. It offers up a raw, untamed landscape of twisted valleys and mountainous peaks. There’s vast lakes surrounded by craggy, razor-like peaks and forested hilltops. There are small quaint towns, castles, old ruins and an abundance of Welsh charm.
Some of the roads through Snowdonia National Park are the best we’ve driven. They take you through breathtaking mountain passes, over valleys, past lakes and through picture-perfect towns. There were a couple of routes we’d driven twice as the views were that good!
Snowdonia is a mountainous region in north west Wales. The mountains here are world famous and people have being visiting them for centuries. There are 86 Welsh mountains in the national park with 52% of the park being made up of its 9 mountain ranges.
Snowdon and the neighbouring mountains where formed around 490 million years ago in the time known as the Ordovician period which lasted around 45 million years. They were formed by volcanic rock and have since been extensively sculpted by glaciation — this has helped give Snowdon its pyramidal peak.
One of the best things to do in Snowdonia is hiking to the summit of Snowdon. At 1085 metres (3560 ft) it is the highest mountain in Wales and the views from the top are incredible. The ascent and descent of Snowdon is around 6 hours of walking depending on which route you choose. Ensure you also take into account the time you will spend at the summit. Most of the walks will take up a full day or at least 6-8 hours depending on the ability of the individual.
There’s also a mountain train from Llanberis that takes you to the summit of Snowdon, the return train journey takes two and a half hours including a 30 minute stop at the summit. You can find more information on dates and pricing at www.snowdonrailway.co.uk
The walking times are for each way not accounting for time spent at the summit and personal ability.
Starting Point Llanberis, Distance 4.3 miles (7 km), Walking Time 3-4 hours
Starting point Pen y Pass, Distance 3.7 miles (6 km), Walking Time 2-3 hours
Starting Point Snowdon Ranger Car Park, Distance 3.7 miles (6 km), Walking Time 2-4 hours
Starting Point Pen y Pass, Distance 3.1 miles (5 km), Walking Time 2-3 hours
Starting Point Rhyd Ddu, Distance 3.7 miles (6 km), Walking Time 2-3 hours
Starting Point Nant Gywnant, Distance 3.7 miles (6 km), Walking Time 3-4 hours
The Llanberis Path is the longest and most gradual of the walks and therefore the most popular amongst leisurely walkers. Bear in mind that in winter the highest parts of the path can become very dangerous.
We recommend the Rhyd Ddu Path, it’s one of the quietest routes to the summit and offers up some amazing mountain scenery along the way. There’s also a dramatic ridge walk which is suitable for most abilities, however the route is best avoided in winter unless you’re experienced and have the correct equipment.
There’s also a mountain train from Llanberis that takes you to the summit of Snowdon, the return train journey takes two and a half hours including a 30 minute stop at the summit. You can find more information on dates and pricing at www.snowdonrailway.co.uk
There are many other mountain walks around Snowdonia National Park for people of various ability and level of experience. You may however have to adjust your itinerary at short notice as the weather can be unpredictable. There’s also a few circular walks you can do — these aren’t too difficult and take you around lakes with mountainous views.
A walk we did, that we highly recommend, is the Cwm Idwal walk. This route starts at the Ogwen Cottage Ranger Base, there’s parking around the base costing £2.50 for 4 hours or £5.00 for a whole day. There’s also toilets and a small shop selling drinks, tea, coffee, snacks and pasties.
The circular walk takes you up through dramatic mountain scenery and around an ice sculpted bowl known as Lake Idwal which is surrounded by impressive mountains and rock formations. The circular walk can be challenging in places, takes around 3 hours to complete and is around 3 miles (4.8 km) in length.
You can just walk up to the lake itself which is suitable for families and people of all walking ability. It takes 15–20 minutes to reach the lake and there’s rocky/stony footpaths all the way up to and around parts of the lake.
A more challenging walk is up to the summit of Glyder Fawr, which also starts from the Ogwen Cottage Ranger Base. Glyder Fawr is 1,001 metres (3,284 m) high and the hike up does involve some scrambling up the rocks.
Another circular walk starting from the Ogwen Cottage Ranger Base takes you around Lake Ogwen. You just cross the road on the left hand side adjacent to the car park. This is a moderate walk and takes you around the lake without climbing any hills, you get some great views of the Tryfan Mountain and the Glyderau Mountain Range. The walk is around 2.8 miles (4.6 km) and takes 1–2 hours to complete.
There’s all sorts of intriguing stories around Snowdonia National Park whether it’s the fables of Cwm Idwal involving giants and princes or perhaps the more accurate links to Charles Darwin and how his visits to the area helped lay the foundations of his theory on evolution.
Myths and legends
If there really was a King Arthur there’s tall tales around parts of Snowdonia and at least two lakes in Snowdonia are claimed to be home to the Lady of the Lake and the final resting place of Excalibur, Arthur’s sword. Some local legends say that Sir Bedivere threw Excalibur into Llyn Llydaw whilst others suggest Lake Ogwen is the final resting place of Excalibur.
Even Mt Snowdon which in Welsh is Yr Wyddfa, meaning tomb or monument has a legend surrounding it. The legend states that it’s the tomb of Rhita Gawf, an ogre who would kill kings and make cloaks from their beards. The ogre supposedly met his end when King Arthur climbed to the top of Mount Snowdon and slayed him.
If you’re visiting or staying in Beddgelert don’t forget to check out the well loved folk-tale of Gelert the dog!
Some of these stories may be nothing more than myth or old folk tale but they only add a sense of mystery and intrigue to an already magical place.
A photo of Lake Ogwen taken with our drone
Legends say that Bedwyr Bedrynant, a knight of King Arthur cast the famous sword Excalibur into the lake at Llyn Ogwen, where it remains to this day.
Many of Wales’ woodlands and forests have disappeared over time, mainly for construction and farming purposes, however Snowdonia National Park has some fantastic forest park and woodland areas. There’s pine covered valleys, riverside forests and oak, ash, rowan and hazel woodlands scattered all over the park.
We visited Coed Y Brenin Forest Park during our stay, it’s a great forest for walking or biking. There are three walking trails which start from the visitors centre car park. Two of the walks are around 1 mile (1.6 km) long and are pretty easy, they take you along the river and through the fir tree forest. There is also a longer, more difficult circular walk taking you to the Gain Waterfall, this trek is a little tricky with some sections taking you across steep footpaths and uneven surfaces.
There are also eight mountain bike trails within the park and facilities such as changing rooms and showers (the showers are charged £1 for 3 minutes).
Another walk within the same forest but starting at the Tyddyn Gwladys car park is the waterfalls and goldmines trail. This walk takes you past the relic of a gunpowder factory, a gold mining works and the waterfalls. The route is easy with one short but steep section and is around 3.5 miles (5.7 km) in length.
Beddgelert has some fantastic walks that take you along gorges, rivers and through woodland with mountain views. The Beddgelert Forest which is not too far from the town has miles of walking paths and some great mountain bike trails, the Welsh Highland Train also runs through the forest so you can spot steam trains while you walk or cycle.
Snowdonia National Park boasts many lakes. Some are shrouded in mystery and legend whilst others are so remote they can only be reached by foot. The lakes are great for scenic walks and you could try and spot some of the local wildlife or many different species of birds here. There’s also fishing, swimming, boating and water sports activities to partake in.
Bala Lake is the largest natural body of water in wales and is nearly 4 miles (6.4 km) long and up to 150 ft (45 metres) deep in places. The lake is walking distance from the historic market town of Bala and is surrounded by stunning mountain scenery. There are a number of walking and cycling trails around the lake and a small steam-train that runs the length of the lake. The train takes you on a 9 mile (14.5 km) round trip giving you fantastic views of the lake as well as the nearby woodland and mountain scenery.
Bala Lake is a popular spot for fishing, sailing, kayaking and canoeing. Two sailing clubs are located on the lake and you can hire sailing boats, canoes and equipment at the Bala end of the lake. There’s a variety of wildlife to be seen around the area as well as many different species of birds. Otters can also be seen in the stream at Abercelyn and around Lake Bala.
Lake Cwellyn is great for an accessible stroll. The lakeside Janus Path takes you on a wooden boardwalk that is suitable for wheelchairs and pushchairs. The walk takes you through woodland and offers incredible views of Snowdon and the surrounding mountains. The path can be reached from the Snowdon Ranger car park where there is disabled parking, toilets and picnic benches.
There are other walks that take you up into the hills above the lake that offer great views of the surrounding area. If you want even more of a challenge you could climb Mynydd Mawr which offers stunning views of Lake Cwellyn. This lake was a glacial lake formed during the last Ice Age, but it has now been dammed at the northern end to make it a reservoir that provides drinking water to nearby towns.
Snowdonia National Park is home to an abundance of wildlife. Various mammals, birds, insects, molluscs and fish as well as a variety of plant life can be seen around Snowdonia National Park’s forests, woodlands, lakes, rivers and mountains.
Rare Snowdon Lily
Whilst walking, as well as enjoying the views of both mountain and sea, it is also possible to spot fossils and interesting plants and animals. These include the very rare Snowdon Lily, which can only be found in Snowdonia, as well certain mountain birds such as the Ring Ouzel. If you’re lucky you might even spot the Snowdon Beetle, also known as the Rainbow Leaf Beetle due to its multicoloured body!
Snowdonia is also home to a rare prehistoric species of fish called the Gwyniad. These fish are believed to have been trapped here from the last ice age and now reside in Lllyn Tegid (Lake Bala). Other rare mammals that can be found around the park include otters, polecats, feral goats and pine martens. There are also many rare birds such as Peregrine, Merlin, Osprey and Red Kite.
We would recommend staying in the town of Betsy-y-Coed as we feel this is a great base for exploring the mountains and other attractions. It’s also not too far from the coast and areas such as Llandudno and Conwy — both worth checking out!
Betsy-y-Coed – a lovely quaint village, situated on the river Llugwy, flanked by pine covered valleys. There’s a number of small shops, cafes, hotels, restaurants and a small supermarket, plus a tourism information centre and museum. Just outside of the town are a number of river-side walks and there’s also the Swallow Falls and Fairy Glen.
Llandudno – a seaside town which also has good access to Snowdonia — it’s around a 30 minute drive to Betsy-y-Coed from here. The town has numerous hotels and B&B’s and there’s also restaurants, shops, pubs and large supermarkets. There is a nice beach here with a pier and also the Great Orme, this is sort of a mini-mountain that protrudes out to sea offering up fantastic views.
Conwy – has good access for getting to Llandudno and Snowdonia. It’s a small medieval, market town with a castle, there’s pubs, restaurants, shops and a quayside. Explore the castle, towers and walls that surround the town and don’t forget to check out the UK’s smallest house.
Llanrwst – a small, riverside market town on the outskirts of the national park, it’s around a 12 minute drive from Betsy-y-coed and 30 minutes to Llandudno. The town has a number of small hotels, restaurants, pubs and a small supermarket.
Beddgelert – a small, picturesque, riverside village that’s not too far from Snowdon and around a 30 minute drive from Betsy-y-Coed. There are lovely stone buildings and cottages, a number of hotels and inns, local craft shops, pubs, restaurants and a village shop for essentials. There are some great walks along the Aberglysn Pass and around the Nant Gwynant Valley. Don’t forget to check out Gelert’s grave and this interesting folk story associated with the town.
The drive down from Capel Curig to Beddgelert along the A4086 is fantastic and one of the most beautiful in Wales with stunning views of Snowdon.
There are good train links to Snowdonia from London and the Midlands. From London trains depart from Euston Station to Bangor Station with the journey taking around 3 hours 20 minutes. Virgin Trains also provides a service from Euston along the North Wales Coast Line which also stops at Birmingham. There are direct links into the park from Conwy via the Conwy Valley Line. These trains run through the park with a train journey from Conwy to Betsy-y-Coed taking around 40 minutes. There are also services from Birmingham New Street, Birmingham International Stations, Holyhead, Shrewsbury, Llandudno Junction, Bangor and Cardiff Central.
Regular coaches also run to Snowdonia and North Wales from London via the Victoria Coach Station. On average the coach will take 8–9 hours depending on traffic and time of day. There are National Express coaches that travel from London, Chester and Manchester to Llandudno, Bangor, Pwillheli and Porthmadog.
If you’re driving, a car journey from London to Snowdonia will take around 4 hours 30 minutes via the M40 and A5. If you’re driving from Birmingham or the Midlands then it will take you around 2 hours 30 to 3 hours.
The Sherpa Bus Service – connects the 6 main walking paths up and down Snowdon and the surrounding villages. It’s great for people who want to start their walk or climb in one place and finish in another. Here’s a list of the villages serviced by the Sherpa Buses – Llanberis, Betsy-y-Coed, Pen-y-Pass, Llanrwst, Caernarfon, Waenfawr, Beddgelert and Porthmadog.
Gwynedd County buses – there are also a number of local bus services covering the Gwynedd area. A bus ticket called the Red Rover gives you a days unlimited bus travel using these buses in the counties of Gwynedd and Anglesey — a ticket costs around £7.00.
Trains – there’s no real train service connecting up the whole national park. There is however the Conwy Valley line which runs from Conwy and Llandudno then through the park, stopping at Betsy-y-Coed then on to Blaenau Ffestiniog. There are also a number of heritage railways in and around Snowdonia, as well as the mountain railway, taking you up to the summit of Snowdon.
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The main natural feature in the area is of course the Arenal Volcano which dominates the lush landscape, you will often find yourself gazing in awe at this near perfect conical volcano just as we did. The volcano is set within the Arenal National Park (around 30,000 acres of land) and the area surrounding the volcano is rich in bio diversity, flora and fauna and is fantastic for trekking and hiking.
